The Brothers Deli: Old School Pastrami 5

I love me a good reuben. Are you with me? The tang of the pastrami, the sour of the kraut and the sweet of the russian dressing, it’s a beautiful thing. I decided last month that I needed some behind the counter photos of a real deli, and visions of reubens were what spurred me on. And while there is definitely room for debating the best pastrami in the Twin Cities, my long standing favorite is The Brothers Deli, downtown Minneapolis.

The Brothers has been around for a long time, in several incarnations; I remember eating at one in Southdale Mall when I was a kid and my mom was a secret shopper for Dayton’s (speaking of old school). Regardless of the location, The Brothers has always been the kind of place that serves bowls of pickles on the tables and slow roasts its pastrami and corned beef on the premises. Which is the only way to go when it comes to a deli, as far as I’m concerned.

I talked to Jeff, the head brother, by phone a couple times to set things up – telling him that I’m a big fan, that I’d love to shoot some during a lunch rush sometime. Our two phone conversations lasted about 15 seconds combined (Jeff’s clearly a guy who has 14 hours of work to do in an 8 hour day), and next thing I knew my assistant TJ and I were there ready to shoot.

Jeff’s crew is a well-oiled machine. All of his employees have been with him for years – many for more than ten – and they know how to get a lunch rush fed. As I tiptoed around everyone, it kind of blew me away how calm everyone was, even though the line was out the door and down the skyway for much of the lunch rush. Each person had their station, and everyone knew exactly what was needed. It was beautiful to watch.

Salad station

Soon-to-be Corned Beef Sandwich

The Grill Captain

Jeff surprised me by asking if I’d be interested in shooting some food shots to put up on the walls of the restaurant. Based on our amazingly quick phone conversations I figured he would have his head down and would forget about me a minute after I was done shooting. But as it turns out, my photos now hang over the deli bar and behind the counter, and there may be more coming shortly. You gotta love it when personal work turns in to paid work.

Next time you’re in the skyways, keep an eye out for a two foot by three foot reuben floating over The Brothers deli bar – that’s my work. Sweet!

Sample Circuit: 20.21 0

There are few things in life that make me happier and more content than being in a restaurant when everything clicks perfectly; when the ambiance is welcoming and warm, the service matches, and the food balances creativity with comfort. Here in Minneapolis I’ve had that experience at a few places: the Birchwood Cafe, the Red Stag Supper Club, the NE Bulldog. Last night it happened for me at 20.21.

Asher and the gang on the line

Asher and the gang on the line

Given the fact that 20.21 resides in the Walker Art Center, and is one of the most upscale of Wolfgang Puck’s current restaurants, you’d maybe expect the snootyness index to be high, but despite the dramatic dining room space and fusion menu, everything about 20.21 feels pretense-free. And everything I’ve tried there (granted, on two trips only) speaks hospitality through attention to every detail. Example from last night: a simple mini cheeseburger, perfectly cooked with a honey curry ketchup that put it over the top.

Both of my trips to 20.21 have been with the Sample Circuit, but I’ll definitely  be going back on my own.

Roasted Alaskan Halibut with Pineapple Sambal

Roasted Alaskan Halibut with Pineapple Sambal

Sweet Corn Soup Shot with Croutons and Chili Oil

Sweet Corn Soup Shot with Croutons and Chili Oil

Tempura Shrimp with Pickled Ginger Vinagrette

Tempura Shrimp with Pickled Ginger Vinaigrette

Korean Beef Short Rib Satays

Korean Beef Short Rib Satays

Chocolate Dipped Cookie Lollipops

Chocolate Dipped Cookie Lollipops

The view on the deck

The view on the deck

Santorini Taverna: Like the Mediterranean, only in Eden Prairie 0

When I started the latest photo shoot for the Sample Circuit, I figured I had a pretty good idea what I was in for: hang out with chef Craig Johnson and shoot some portraits, showcase their new restaurant space in a way that highlighted its deck and general Mediterranean-ness, shoot some food. Then they said they wanted a shot of owner Tony Nicklow with one of their signature dishes, saganaki. Turns out saganaki is an Asiago-like Greek cheese that is doused in brandy tableside then lit on fire. Flames erupt, everyone yells “OPA!” the flames recede, and the tray is set in front of the happy diners.

Now that’s a subject! First of all, you’ve got to know that I love cheese. Second, beautiful as the new Santorini is, it’s not actually the Mediterranean. It’s a very nice restaurant in an Eden Prairie strip mall. Tough to muster maximum excitement for that kind of setting. But you throw in some flaming imported dairy, held by a guy who’s been serving this dish for over 30 years? My attention had been piqued.

But first, chef Craig Johnson. Great guy, fun photo subject in part because he actually did the non-standard things I asked him to. Case in point.

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Then it was time for Tony and saganaki. A testament to his true professionalism: no eyebrows were harmed in the making of this image.

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Birchwood Cafe’s Earth Day Beer Dinner 1

This past Sunday was the Birchwood Cafe’s annual Earth Day Dinner, and it was phenomenal. Seven courses of creativity, each paired beautifully with very different Minnesota beers.

I’m really not embellishing when I say that I loved each course, but I did have favorites. Like at the Valentine’s Day dinner earlier this year, I thought the BW’s Executive Chef, Marshall Paulsen, did an amazing job with the early courses in particular. This time around a beet and chevre terrine with tangelo and melted leek sauce had a great mix of flavors. The pairing with Lift Bridge Brewery’s Farm Girl Saison was perfect as well.

Beet and Chevre terrine

Beet and Chevre terrine

The next course was spot on as well: trout with coppa cured at neighboring Craftsman Restaurant, fiddlehead fern, sunchoke chips, parsley almond pesto, and wild ramps, paired with Lake Superior Brewery’s Kayak Kolsch. Beautiful mix of textures, and I couldn’t get enough of the coppa.

Fried Fiddlehead Ferns

Fried Fiddlehead Ferns

Trout with Craftsman Capa, ferns, parseley pesto, and wild ramps

Trout with Craftsman Capa, ferns, parseley pesto, and wild ramps

As with all events at the Birchwood, this one put all the emphasis on the local, the creative, and the communal. When owner Tracy Singleton got up to speak, it was to draw attention to the farmers in attendance who supply the restaurant, Peace Coffee, and Eureka Recycling – who composts over 90% of the Birchwood’s waste. Just a super fun, delicious evening, liberally lubricated with great Minnesota beer.

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Marshall Paulsen and his kitchen crew cranking out the plates

Marshall Paulsen and his kitchen crew cranking out the plates

Plating of the Bison Ribeye

Plating of the Bison Ribeye

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