Congratulations to Steven Brown on the successful opening of his new restaurant, Tilia, in Linden Hills. Andrew Zimmern posted a stellar review yesterday on one of his blogs, which I’m sure will be followed by more praise from the other critics in town.

Photographing the chefs and food that went in to The Culinary Mistress, we ended up setting up our roving photo studio in some. . . nontraditional spaces in order to accommodate the schedule of a chef: dining rooms during service, kitchens, back hallways crowded with ladders and spare 4-tops. My favorites were the chefs we photographed who were in the process of developing their next restaurant: Stewart Woodman prior to the opening of Heidi’s, Stephen Trojahn during the Gastro Truck off-season, and Steven Brown during the lead up to the newly-opened Tilia. Since these chefs didn’t have restaurants for us to invade, they opened their homes to us. And since there wasn’t the crush of responsibilities generally pressing down on an executive chef in the restaurant, we were able to have some great conversations.

Steven talked about the gastro-pub trend of the past several years, and about how the public’s growing embrace of craft beers has mirrored his own shift toward a cuisine that is much more approachable and affordable, but still well thought out and crafted. Based on Zimmern’s review, it sounds like Tilia is a perfect realization of Steven’s latest food thoughts, as well as exactly what tons of people (me included) are looking for these days in a restaurant.

One of the things I love about professional chefs is that they’re often up for an adventure. Take Hakan Lundberg, Chef de Cuisine at Cosmos Restaurant in Minneapolis. When I first approached him a couple months ago about helping me put together a food photo shoot on top of a frozen lake, he put up about ten seconds of indecision, then jumped squarely on board. I did luck out a little bit, though; his first ice fishing experience happened after I made the request. If things had happened the other way around, I’m not so sure I would’ve got the same answer.

Ice Fishing Gourmet – Images by Chris Bohnhoff

This shoot definitely had more variables to contend with than installment one of the Worldly Gourmet series last summer with Asher Miller. Variable number one goes by the name Lake Minnetonka. I went out to scout the shoot location a week prior to our chosen date, and temps had been in the upper 30s for several days. The foot of snow sitting on top of the ice had been turned to slushy puddles. Not really what I wanted to see. Then a good news/bad news kind of thing happened: first, a big cold snap froze the puddles, which was great. Not so great was the 14 inches of snow that came a couple days before the shoot, making travel across the lake much more tricky.

A very busy week leading up to the shoot meant that dialing in the location would have to happen the morning of the shoot, which certainly provided a couple anxious moments (that’s code for nearly driving in to the lake, then getting stuck for 15 minutes), but in the end we found a great spot and hit our schedule perfectly. Hooray for local knowledge, trusty assistants capable of taking turns at pushing a stuck vehicle, Google Maps, fallback options, and fallback fallback options!

Once we got to our spot, a magical thing happened that I find often happens when it’s time to take photos: the thick gray clouds parted, the wind died down, and the weather turned about as nice as you could expect on a late-February day in Minnesota. Hakan’s son Isaac had a great time ice fishing (although the highlight of his day seemed to be when the fish heads were removed – he kept asking if it was time, and when it finally was, he ran around screaming, TIME TO CUT THE FISH HEADS! TIME TO CUT THE FISH HEADS! Clearly the son of a chef – plus, check out the photo of him cutting carrots), and we did exactly what we had set out to do: have a great time, and take some fun quirky photos.

Much-deserved thanks to my collaborators, Food Stylist Rachel Sherwood, Prop and Wardrobe Stylist Jenny Jenkins, and Photo Assistant Nate Ryan. And of course, thanks to Hakan Lundberg, a true culinary artist, for being so giving with his time and talents. Check out his Cosmos Kitchen blog for the latest in his professional world, or, even better, stop by Cosmos to sample some of the most creative, beautiful plates in Minneapolis.

Lastly, if you’d like to see a couple behind-the-scenes shots from the day, c’mon over to my Facebook Page for the rest of the story.

I’ve had the good fortune to photograph Asher Miller several times over the past couple years, and I don’t just say that because he’s the only chef I’ve worked with who has, out of the blue, invited me to stick around after a shoot and cooked me lunch. Asher’s an artist and a professional who also happens to be a straight-up good guy. With me, he’s always been very giving of his time – and his food – as evidenced by his participation in my Rest Stop Gourmet project last summer, among other projects.

Earlier this week it was announced that 20.21’s run at the Walker will come to an end this Spring, which is too bad. 20.21 is a place that, under Asher’s guidance, crafted flavors beautifully, and created an atmosphere of hospitality and artistry that will be missed. But I can’t wait to see where Asher lands next; I hope that Puck doesn’t pull him out of town, because that would be the true loss to the Twin Cities food scene.

One of the moments I’m most proud of from the Culinary Mistress project happened during my shoot with Lenny Russo of Heartland Restaurant & Farm Direct Market: Lenny was intrigued by an appetizer recipe I was kicking around in my head.

As a portrait photographer, one of the main challenges I’m continually faced with is how to break the ice with my subjects and create some semblance of a relationship very quickly. Sometimes it’s easy, sometimes it doesn’t happen. But with Lenny I had a perfect in. The shoot was two days before Thanksgiving, and the next day I was co-hosting a pre-Thanksgiving party. I didn’t exactly know what I was going to make for an appetizer, but as I was checking out at the coop a few days prior, the cashier had seen my container of buttermilk and mentioned she was going to make a parsnip pie. Now I was mulling that idea over, trying to think of how I could make parsnip pie in to an app. And what better giver of advice of one of the true champions of local ingredients and deliciousness than chef Russo?

Lenny joined me in the dining room and as I took a few test shots, I told him about the recipe I was trying to come up with: phyllo cups filled with pureed parsnips and. . . what? To my surprise, Lenny gave it some real thought. Not that I didn’t think he would be courteous; I just have a lot of respect for him as a chef, and not a lot of respect for my own culinary talents. But he said, “Hmm. Interesting. Was this your idea?” I conveniently forgot my conversation with the coop checker and claimed it as my own. But after the initial interest, he proceeded to pretty much shoot me down. First, he wouldn’t use parsnips so early in a meal. Second, phyllo cups are clearly way too bush league. “What you really need to do is come back here and get some high quality lard from the Farm Direct Market and make yourself some proper crusts.” Points taken.

As it turned out, I didn’t get any pointers on my recipe, but our conversation definitely got Lenny in a good place for photos. And if you ever see a parsnip pie on the Heartland menu, think of me.

By the way, if you want to cook like Lenny Russo or any of the other chefs I’m highlighting here, you’ve got to get your hands on the Culinary Mistress. You’ll find the recipes for the dishes pictured, and more fun personal facts about the people behind the food.